Exfoliation does not have to mean scrubbing. We explain how BHA and PHA differ, why they pair well, and how often to use them.
Why exfoliate at all
Skin naturally sheds dead cells, but in spot-prone skin that process can be a little sluggish, leaving cells to build up on the surface and inside pores. Regular, gentle exfoliation helps that shedding along. The result many people notice is smoother texture, clearer-looking pores and a more even-looking surface. The key word is gentle: exfoliation that leaves skin raw tends to backfire.
BHA in a sentence
BHA, usually salicylic acid, is oil-soluble. That lets it work in the oily environment of the pore, which makes it a favourite for blackheads and congestion. It is the workhorse of the pair.
PHA in a sentence
PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone, have a larger molecular size than many other acids. They work more slowly at the surface, which generally makes them gentler, and they are known for having a hydrating, humectant quality too. Think of PHA as the softer partner that helps smooth without stripping.
Why the pair works
Combining BHA and PHA gives you inside-the-pore action and surface smoothing in one step, without relying on very high concentrations of either. It is a balanced approach that suits many spot-prone skins that also run a little sensitive. Start with two or three evenings a week, then increase to four if your skin is happy. If you notice stinging, tightness or flaking, scale back and focus on barrier care for a few days.
Using our Pore Toner
Pore Toner pairs BHA and PHA in an alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula. Sweep it over skin cleansed with Gel Cleanser, let it dry, then apply Spot Serum if you are using it and seal with Barrier Cream. On mornings after toner nights, Daily SPF 50 is essential, as freshly exfoliated skin can be more sensitive to the sun. Avoid using it on the same night as other strong exfoliants or retinoids unless a professional has advised it.
In short
- Why exfoliate at all: Skin naturally sheds dead cells, but in spot-prone skin that process can be a little sluggish, leaving cells to build up on the surface and inside pores.
- BHA in a sentence: BHA, usually salicylic acid, is oil-soluble.
- PHA in a sentence: PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids such as gluconolactone, have a larger molecular size than many other acids.
- Why the pair works: Combining BHA and PHA gives you inside-the-pore action and surface smoothing in one step, without relying on very high concentrations of either.
- Using our Pore Toner: Pore Toner pairs BHA and PHA in an alcohol-free, fragrance-free formula.
Quick questions
How long before I see results from an active ingredient?
Give most actives eight to twelve weeks of consistent use before judging. Skin renews gradually, and photos taken in the same light every couple of weeks are the best way to track change.
Is a higher percentage always better?
No. Higher concentrations can increase the chance of irritation without necessarily improving results. A well-formulated, moderate level used consistently is often the more comfortable choice.
How do I know my barrier is stressed?
Common signs include stinging with products that used to feel fine, tightness, flaking alongside oiliness and new redness. Pare back to cleanse, moisturise and protect for a week or two.
The OBSESSED take
Skin is individual, and what works for one person may not work for another. Introduce new products one at a time, patch test first and give each step several weeks before judging it. Stop using anything that causes persistent stinging, swelling or rash.
This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. If you have persistent, painful or scarring breakouts, or any concerns about your skin, please speak to a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist.
